French Art Nouveau Diamond Brooch | 3.4ctw | .93ct Old Mine Centre | Sterling & Pink Gold | c.1890
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An outstanding French Art Nouveau brooch acquired in France — 81 rose cuts and three old mine cuts in a swirling composition where the flowers appear to bloom into each other, dew drops rendered as diamonds dripping into articulation at the very bottom.
This piece sits at the precise threshold where the Empress Eugénie sensibility of the 1850s evolves into the floral, aesthetic language of Art Nouveau — and it shows that transition in its very form. The swirling shapes are rare for a brooch of this construction. The diamond work is exceptional: 81 rose cuts totalling 2.11ctw, plus three old mine cuts including a central stone that runs nearly 5mm deep — almost as deep as it is wide — giving it the true weight of a near-carat stone despite appearing more demure at 5.12mm in width. The total comes to 3.4ctw. The brooch has been tastefully upgraded with a double chain fitting at the top crescent, and a solder repair on the reverse where a screw fitting was once removed — both entirely appropriate to a piece of this age and quality. A possible collection accession number (7045) is visible on the lower left swirl, suggesting a previous institutional provenance. Two eagle head assays confirm 18ct; a further hallmark appears on the silver.
Details
- Era: Art Nouveau, French, c. 1890
- Materials: Sterling silver, 18ct pink gold
- Stones: 3.4ctw total | 81 rose cuts 2.11ctw + central old mine .93ct est. + .16ct + .20ct old mines
- Centre Stone: Old mine cut, est. .93ct | 5.12mm wide × ~5mm deep
- Dimensions: 2.1"
- Weight: 19.16g
- Hallmarks: Two eagle head assays (18ct) on pin back; additional eagle head on silver; possible accession number 7045 on lower swirl
- Condition: Excellent historical condition; solder repair on reverse (screw fitting removed); double chain fitting added at top. Have a close look at the photos.
Shipping & Services
Ships fully insured, signature required via UPS from our NYC office. Full historical certification and appraisal services available upon request — beautiful documented paperwork inclusive of photographs.
The Curio NYC | Fine Historical Jewels | Brooklyn, New York, Paris
