Napoleon III Onyx Cameo Brooch of Hera, Attributed to Paul Victor Lebas

Likely set in her phenomenal frame by Caillot & Peck, Paris, in the late 1850’s, it is very possible that this cameo was carved by the famous French engravery/glyptist Paul Victor Lebas.

It is perhaps even finer than some of the works he created for the French royal family – having depicted Empress Eugenie dripping in pearls (figure 3, figure 2 royal cameo with ermine of EE,) her son, the Prince Imperial shown with no stitch of adornment from the neck up (figure 4, at the MET), and Apollo, perhaps by another artist who worked with Caillot & Peck– less astutely rendered and on view at the British museum (figure 1.)

We can identify this cameo as Hera by her bandeau tiara, and demure costume; the piecrust setting around the cameo and tubing detail in the “cadre” (18ct gold frame) add to the date attribution, this style of frame was very popular during the second empire. This piece is made all the more interesting by the hand carving of a false gold mark; 14K was hastily carved on the bottom of the frame on the reverse, likely upon import into the US to guarantee gold quality. Since assayed for a higher gold fineness, at 18ct, the story is made so compelling by this detail. 

Details

• Era: Napoleon III Period
• Origin: French
• Materials: 18ct gold, assayed and guaranteed
• Stones: Onyx cameo of Hera
• Measurements: 55mm x 50mm
• Weight: 19.28g
• Attribution: Likely carved by Paul Victor Lebas; likely framed by Caillot & Peck, Paris, in the late 1850’s.
• Setting / Construction: Piecrust setting with tubing detail in the 18ct gold frame.
• Clasp: Pin back is a later replacement.
• Condition: Excellent condition of body and cameo, with some historical edits to the reverse; pin back is a later replacement, and there might have been a pendant hook at the top that has since exited the building.
• Hallmarks / Stamps: Carved in false “14 K” mark that was likely added upon import to the US. The cameo assays at 18ct and is of French origin, likely carved by Paul Victor Lebas.

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