Exceptional Late 19th C and Diamond Bow and Opal Pendant

Outstanding Victorian jewelry is always en vogue- examples with that feminine, fanciful je-ne-sais-quoi will always be premium. This beautiful diamond bow and opal lavaliere pendant is especially extraordinary in its execution of these stylistic goals. Circa 1890, this massive diamond bow is absolutely remarkable. 

Whether simple or elaborate, bow motifs have been a popular and desirable look all through the history of jewelry. For centuries famous makers and jewelry houses have featured bows in nearly all of their pieces, with stylistic elements that reflect the times and social settings of each era. During the 18th century in the French court of Louis XIV, bow brooches were used as “ribbon language” to communicate one’s availability for matrimony. Typically they were delicately shaped metal and diamond bow brooches called Sévignés, named after the Marquise de Sévigné whose famous French writings spoke of ladies with strategically placed bow brooches and necklaces. A bow worn over the heart indicated the woman was taken and had found true love, a bow dangling around the neck indicated that she was in between loves, and a bow over the décolletage was an invitation to prospective suitors. 

This antique brooch features a beautiful, glittering bow, set in silver, as was the style for diamond settings. Set in 14ct yellow gold, the bow has a large and lively opal drop dangling from it, also set in yellow gold. While we do not believe that the opal drop was original to the bow, it is clear that the bow was designed to hold any number of different drops, as was the common custom during the previous centuries--so it is perfectly normal that the opal was a later addition, and is absolutely remarkable. Nearly impossible to find in this scale and shape, we are extremely impressed with this remarkable opal. 

Details (approximate)

Dimensions: 35mm x 35mm (1.74")

Weight: 8.4 grams

Materials: Gold, silver, rose cut diamonds, opal

Pear Cabochon Opal=4.4ct

40 Rose Cut Diamonds=1.05ctw; Color: H-I, Clarity: VS-SI

Metal: 14K yellow gold, sterling silver

Marks: Weevil in round border on C clasp (French import from a treaty country, minimum fineness Au750/Ag800)

Condition: Excellent antique condition. The remarkable opal seems to have been lovingly re-set but perfectly creates a compelling addition to the rare late 19th c diamond bow.